Yesterday we drove to Cordoba, a distance of about 150 kilometres from our base. For a long time I wanted to visit just to see the famous Mezquita. It began life as a mosque when the Moors ruled Spain. After construction it saw two enlargements until it became the largest mosque in Europe. Eventually Christianity returned to Spain and, in the case of Cordoba, an architect was engaged to design and build a Gothic cathedral. What we saw yesterday is the result of his work. It is amazing place, though the Spanish king of the day was not at all pleased to see a cathedral set inside the mosque. He believed the architect had ruined a historical building!
Knowing this, I expected to see a cathedral in the middle with a mosque surrounding it. But it is not that at all. Yes, the church is in the middle but the walls of the mosque, linked by hundreds of horseshoe arches, contain a number of chapels where are buried some of the worthies of yesteryear. The way the architect did his job was originally to have a cathedral with no doors as the mosque doors were the eventual entrances to the building.
The various sections of the cathedral have an architectural beauty far surpassing any Gothic cathedral in Great Britain. From the outside, GB wins, but inside there is a "wow factor" of surprising magnitude. Since visiting Toledo cathedral last year I have been taken to a new level in appreciation of cathedral architecture. Old Spanish churches are very ornate in their internal decoration, with vaulting to surpass anything we have back home. They are, quite simply, worth a visit.
The area surrounding the high altar is very beautiful. However, it does not compete with either the retable at Iglesia del Carmen in Antequera or the soaring example at Toledo. nevertheless, it is lovely, as is the entire building.
The Muslim decoration remaining in the Mezquita is truly beautiful and quite different from any Christian work. One thing stands out for me - the Spanish authorities of the day were very aware of the heritage they had from Muslim rule and saw to it that it was not lost forever. I think they were very wise and cultured in the way they saw it all as part of Spain's rich historical tapestry. Thankfully, they never had to endure dissolution as did GB under Henry VIII.
Well, after working hard to push Pauline in the wheelchair, hired from the Red Cross, all the way to the Mezquita, encountering many kerbs that ought to have been lowered, I was able to feel the thrill of being in a unique place. By the time we left the Mezquita we were hungry, so we popped into the restaurant across the street and sampled some excellent Spanish food in a late lunch. I set off with a will, pushing Pauline back to the car park, and capitulated when I spotted a taxi. It was time to drive home. As we approached Colmenar, two motor cycle police gave us hard looks after having had to wait to overtake the British car driving slowly along the road. Had I increased my speed they would have had the joy of fining me once again! Not likely, constable!
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